Renting a villa instead of staying in a hotel can give you a different look at Italy.
Cautionary notes about renting:
1. Make sure utilities are covered.
2. Have a contract and keep it with you. This can be handy at check-out to verify what you do and don't pay for.
3. Ask about air conditioning. It can take time to turn it on.
4. Euro washing machines take a lot longer to cycle and there are no dryers in most homes. Don't pack clothes that turn crackly after air drying. Softer fabrics and synthetics wash and wear much better.
5. Ask for two sets of keys. And ask the management company to show you how to use them — European locks can be ancient and quirky.
6. Fuses get blown. AC has mysterious settings in other languages. You want immediate assistance. Ask for a 24-hour number to call. Ours were programmed into the home phone, which was helpful.
What to pack for your kitchen
Pop-up sponges. They're space-saving in your luggage and much cleaner than the sponges you might find in your adopted kitchen.
Plastic bags. They're versatile and take up less luggage space than plastic wrap. (They weren't provided in our kitchens.)
Kitchen towels. Take "one way" towels that are on their last legs and toss them when you're through.
Knives. An imperative for serious cooks. The knives provided were cheap and dull. (Don't take yours in carry-on luggage!)
Spices you can't live without. We brought a chili rub with us and should have taken more chili powder. Don't pack anything that is liquid but do take small amounts of your American favorites such as lemon pepper and Cajun spices.
Insulated backpack. Use it as your carry-on. Then when you arrive, just pop a bottled water in your freezer. You can use as a cold pack and take groceries from one city to another or pack picnics with you when you go sightseeing.
Tips for grocery shopping
Find out when and where outdoor markets are open. Hours are important because they close and disappear within minutes as if they were never there.
Supermarkets are smaller than in the U.S. but some have fantastic selections of deli and baked goods. Look in the cheese section for dolce gorgonzola, fresh mozzarella and other treats. French and Spanish cheeses are far less expensive here than in the U.S.
Green grocers often feature little neighborhood stands; the prices aren't as good as at the market but they're convenient when you've forgotten that one ingredient. Some sell their own marinated olives and other treats. Befriend the proprietors and they will put up with your broken Italian and even give you deals sometimes.
Bring a market bag that folds up neatly.
Enotecas (wine bars) are great for special bottles but don't overlook the wine at grocery stores. You'll find wonderful selections for 10 Euros or less. You probably won't recognize the labels, since this is wine that's meant for domestic consumption, so watch what the locals are choosing.
Meat markets, pastry shops and other places to buy food stuffs give you the real flavor of Italy. Here is where you'll find pan forte and other treats in a variety of regional styles. In Rome we shopped for food and gifts at Castroni, an international spice and food stuffs store with incredible Italian chocolates and nougats and a few items for a Mexican food fix, like pickled jalapenos.
Homefinding Web sites
We used www.vrbo.com for Florence and www.undertheromansun.com for Rome.
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